Hand Washing 101:

Think that you're doomed to debt with your dry cleaner? Nah…almost anything you own that is cashmere, camel's hair, wool, silk, cotton or linen can be hand washed if you know how:

My disclaimer:

If a garment isn't washable, the safest thing is to take it to a dry cleaner; Show them the stain and tell them what it is (if you know). If you wanna test these treatments to minimize your risk factor, try the technique in a hidden area (such as the inseam -- or better yet use that never-worn scarf that came with the garment) before you take the plunge into water. As with any “dry clean only” garment, you will want to minimize the washings and dry cleanings. Dry cleaning chemicals weaken the fabrics, just as bleach does for washables. Hand washing often releases dye into the rinse water which robs the vibrancy of the colors of your garment. This is particularly evident with silks. Fortunately, solid color silks are easily re-dyed to restore the luster…but how to do that will require another web page <vbg>

The Golden Rules:

• As you read these steps, this may seem like a hassle. But once you get it down, the process really doesn't take long, and you will enjoy the savings. Now if you're just making so much $$$ that you can't be bothered, then you probably already have that “full staff” anyway so why are you reading this?
• Never iron buttons because they will break.
• Never use vinegar on linen -- you will burn and ruin the fabric if you do.
• Never use bleach on silk -- it will burn the fabric.
• Always wear rubber gloves to protect hands from ammonia, bleach and vinegar.
• Use RIT color remover for seriously yellowed synthetic fabrics. It appears to work better than RIT brightener and really gets things white again.
• Whites that have yellowed over time through routine bleaching or otherwise can be rejuvinated through using "bluing." Your grandma probably used some sort of bluing cuz it really works…and it's cheap. Why your mother didn't tell you about it is a conspiracy. It's amazing stuff. Look for it in the laundry detergent section of your supermarket or Target-like store. Bluing is available in both liquid and powder form. Just follow the directions on the packaging.
• Between washings, try sprinkling a tiny bit of powder on a grease spot. Powder will absorb the grease, and can be brushed off. Repeat several times.
• “Tepid water” means lukewarm water (Many thanks to the tourist who asked me that question by email)
• Don't try these techniques for lined suit pieces. Surrender those to your dry cleaner.
• Do wash ASAP after spotting the fabric.

Your handwashing tool kit consists of:

• Lux or Ivory brand soap flakes -- no Tide or other brands, because it must be a very basic soap
• Keep soap ends in a jar and add a little bit of water. This keeps them soft and you can use them when boiling linen and cotton.
• White distilled vinegar -- takes out the soap residue, often corrects yellowing, adds a bit of shine, and also generally helps eliminate “dinginess”
• Plain ammonia -- for some stains
• Chlorine bleach (i.e. Clorox but any no-name brand will work equally well)
• Salt -- yep, the good ol' basic from your kitchen to make salt baths with -- which help keep colors and stains from bleeding.
• Terry cloth towels (the thicker the better) -- to absorb extra water
• Plastic wash tub or sink
• RIT brand color remover -- for seriously yellowed synthetic fabrics
• A good clean iron
• A pressing cloth -- just a good clean thin piece of fabric like an old sheet
• Padded hanger/s to avoid creasing the shoulders of freshly ironed hot garments
• Optional: A press mitt -- to avoid having a crease down your sleeves (if you don't like that look)

Okay, now that you have collected your hand washing essentials…

Washing wool and cashmere:

Anything you own that's cashmere, camel's hair, wool, or a synthetic (acrylic, wool/acrylic, etc.) can be hand washed if you know how…

1. Dissolve soap flakes in hot water, then add cold.
2. Squeeze suds through garments.
3. Look for spots and rub gently - overenthusiastic scrubbing frays the fibers.
4. For pale beige, cream and white, add two capfuls of ammonia to the wash water.
5. Rinse well, first under running water, then in a sink filled with an inch or so more water until all soap is removed.
6. Drain
7. Fill sink with another two inches of water
8. Add 1/3 cup white distilled vinegar and swish garment around lightly.
9. Rinse again until all vinegar is out. (Remember: you might see dye in the rinse water -- don't fret too much).
10. Wrap in a towel and twist until the towel is really wet -- then unwrap
11. Roll into a second towel and twist. If the garment is now just damp, then you are ready to iron it dry. If it is not “there” yet, go for a third towelling.

Drying wool and cashmere:

• If you put wool or cashmere into a clothes dryer you will shrink it to Barbie® size…so don't do it.
• Iron sweaters if you possibly can.
• Wool fibers stiffen from contact with water -- ironing “relaxes” them.

1. Iron with a warm iron on the wrong side of the fabric.
2. Iron again, this time on the right side of the fabric with a damp pressing cloth in-between the garment and the iron's plate surface.
3. Block flat on a towel to dry completely
4. Fold, or hang on a padded hanger

Washing silk:

Most silk blouses and shirts read “dry clean only”. Not to dispute the manufacturer, but silk is a natural fiber, and if it is 100% silk you should be able -- with care -- to wash it. If you have doubts, review my disclaimer.

Ties require special attention and are more complicated because of all the folds in the fabric that are sewn in. Hand washing ties is a real labor of love, and I only do it for special friends in a pickle.

1. Fill a small plastic washing tub with warm water and soap flakes
2. If the garment is very dirty or has spots or stains, check out my Fabric First Aid Chart or if you want to live dangerously just add two capfuls of ammonia to this wash water.
3. Wash without excessive rubbing, but be sure to get around the neck, cuffs, and stains.
4. Rinse out all soap in tepid water.
5. Fill tub again and add 1/4 cup of distilled white vinegar.
6. Swish the garment around in the vinegar water.
7. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
8. Roll immediately in a towel and twist to absorb excess water. Unwrap.
9. Wrap it into a second towel and leave it there until you're ready to iron it.

Drying silk:

• Warning: Wet silk left in the air will dry yellow
• Always iron while the silk is damp. If it gets too dry, dampen with a wet rag.
• Don't let anything hang over an edge because it will make a “mark”

1. Begin drying silk with a medium-hot iron (start with a cooler temperature and work up to a good setting) on the right side of the fabric.
2. Begin with collar, cuffs, and sleeves; move on to the shoulders and the body.
3. Stuff your press mitt into the shoulders and down the arms if you don't want to have a crease down the sleeve else refold so you can press the crease out without creating two more creases<vbg>.
4. After ironing, either put the garment on a padded hanger to cool, or lay scarves, etc. flat on a table or bed.

Specifically about silk ties:

Ties are tough, but do-able. I wouldn't try this for the first time with a favorite spendy tie. Not that this won't work, but you may not be happy with the folds of the tie afterwards unless you are particularly skilled and/or patient with the iron.

1. If the tie has a spill on it, first treat the stain appropriately. Go look at my Fabric First Aid chart before proceeding.
2. Only wash one tie at a time, unless all of the ties you are washing are the same solid color.
3. If you think that the color might run, first give it a bath in cold, salted water.
4. Wash in warm water with soap flakes, but be very careful not to twist the tie out of shape.
5. Never squeeze, and keep a hanger close at hand to hand ties between rinses.
6. Just lightly brush the tie -- hold a piece of it in each hand; never rub.
7. Open points at ends and let water run through the tie so it really gets well rinsed.
8. After the soaping, rinse in lots of cold water until the water runs clear.
9. Add a bit of vinegar to the clear water (it helps to set the color.)
10. Rinse the vinegar out.
11. Hang the ties up to dry completely before ironing.
12. Make sure that the points in the front and back are in their proper shape.
13. Use a just-damp pressing cloth on both sides of the tie to prevent it from taking on a shine from the iron.
14. Heat iron to medium-hot and begin on the wrong side using very light pressure and going inside the tips. If you have been careful about the shape, you may only need a touch-up.
15. Iron both sides with the pressing cloth.
16. Lay tie flat on a bed or table until totally dry again.

Washing linen and cotton:

• Linen -- as everyone knows -- wrinkles. Choose simple shapes; they'll be easier to iron.
• Never use vinegar with linen because it will burn the fabric.
• Avoid ammonia with linens and cottons -- I find that it does wacky things to the fabric.
• Linen is a very sturdy fabric. If some of yours has yellowed, boil it with a little pure soap until it comes white, or alternatively, after you have washed it, you can bleach it, carefully.

1. Fill a small plastic washing tub with warm water and soap flakes
2. If the garment is very dirty or has spots or stains, check out my Fabric First Aid Chart
3. Wash without excessive rubbing, but be sure to get around the neck, cuffs, and stains.
4. Rinse out all soap in tepid water.
5. Fill tub again and add: 1/4 cup of bleach and a sprinkling of soap flakes.
6. Stir until all soap flakes are dissolved and the bleach is thoroughly incorporated.
7. Add the garment and wash again. Most stains will lift right out.
8. Rinse thoroughly…
   • For linens: rinse with cold clean water. The cold water cuts the bleach smell. (Avoid hot water -- which does just the opposite.)
   • For cottons: rinse first with hot water, then cold.
9. Drip-dry for 10 minutes or so then…
10. Roll into a towel and leave it there until you're ready to iron it dry.

Drying Linen and Cotton:

• Iron with a medium-hot iron (again cautiously increasing heat.)
• Keep the iron moving
• Linen must be wet to be ironed successfully. It dries very fast (that's why it is a preferred fabric in hot climates because it breathes easily and moisture evaporates from it quickly) so keep a wet rag on hand while ironing it.
• Hang on a padded hanger when finished until completely cooled and totally dry.

Credits:

• Many thanks to Martha Stewart (and her 'Living' army), Penelope Linck, Mrs. Aimée Musich, and Vogue magazine for ideas and formulas.
• Web site creation by: KTCampbell.com®, freelance web design.